A country that preserves the language and culture of its founders

Just in front of Portoscuso is a small island. Located in the Sulcis archipelago, it is the westernmost point of Italy. The island is San Pietro and its only settlement is Carloforte. Founded in 1738 by Genoese fishermen who had colonized the Tunisian island of Tabarka, the island still preserves the Ligurian dialect, way of life and culture of its inhabitants. In essence, Carloforte is a small satellite of Liguria transplanted to Sardinia. From the Port of Portoscuso, a ferry leaves every hour for the island. Arriving in Carloforte you may wonder if you are still in Sardinia. The look, and even the feel, is intrinsically different from anywhere else you will encounter on your Sardinian adventure. The village architecture, with balconies and Arab influences, the maze of stairs and the jumble of narrow streets, all against the backdrop of the Mediterranean, have meant that Carloforte has been included among the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy. The buildings have the bright and vivid colors of the Cinque Terre villages. The facades are colored fuchsia, lemon yellow and dotted with orange. It is a photographer’s dream. One place in particular has inspired painters, photographers, poets and singers. The arch of Via Solferino is the most visited place in Carloforte, even though the locals do not know when or why it was built. The Museo Civico Casa del Duca, set up in the guardhouse of the oldest fortification, is a small museum where you can learn about the history of Carloforte. But the true identity of Carloforte is discovered by wandering through the labyrinth of streets and going up and down its countless stairs. It is in these streets, called caruggi, that you hear the dialect and encounter the daily life of these Carlofortini who have managed to maintain an identity all their own. Leaving the town of Carloforte, you head towards the Tonnara. It is at this point that the famous red tuna enters the Mediterranean from the Atlantic, passing directly through here and making Isola San Pietro an ideal place for tuna fishing. The tuna processing plant is one of the oldest in the Mediterranean, a must-see for its stunning location on the rocky point. The fishing methods used are still traditional, with all parts of the tuna used in various ways. There is also the option of a guided tour and tasting Carloforte’s zero-mile tuna cans produced directly on the plant. You can’t leave Carloforte without trying tuna. Of course, the sea is an essential part of life in Carloforte. And while the town beckons with its character and charm, the rugged coastline of Isola San Pietro must be seen. Much of it is inaccessible by car, so the best way to admire the many coves, jagged rocks and charming bays is from the sea itself. Small boats can be hired, giving you the freedom to take your time circumnavigating Isola San Pietro. If you are lucky, you may spot a nesting colony of Eleonora’s falcons, for which the island is famous, in a rocky cove. A nice dip in the crystal clear waters of another inlet, a snack with focaccia, pecorino cheese and local cured meats and a delicious local biscuit called pé de porcu, admiring the imposing promontory of Capo Sandalo with its 19th century lighthouse.